The Difference Between Chain
Store
Fabrics and Quilter's Grade
Fabrics
April 2000
The following is taken from an article by Jim Salinas
in the Winter 2000 issue of "Spools & Tools". Mr.
Salinas will be giving a two-hour class at International Quilt
Market in May on this topic and more. His article takes some
of the mystery out of fabric manufacture and why most quilters
spend a little more for "quilters fabric."
"Is there really any difference between the printed
cotton found in chain store for $2.99 to $5.99 per yard and the
printed cottons found in shops for $7.99 to $9.99? You bet there
is, and understanding these differences is critical...
Premium brands, such as Moda, start with high quality griege
goods (pronounced "gray," griege goods are unfinished
fabrics in their raw state). Premium griege goods have a minimum
of 60 threads on the warp and 60 threads on the woof. Many premium
griege goods thread counts are higher than "60 square."
Higher thread counts contribute to a silkier hand (feel), less
bearding when quilted, increased longevity plus enhanced printing
definition.
In addition to thread count, we have the issue of what diameter
yarns are used in the griege good construction, the size of cotton
filaments used, and the length of the cotton staple. As in all
manufacturing, premium components cost more and add to the final
cost of the product. The premium brands typically make use of
a number of screens (the number of colors used in the print)
and more complex engravings normally require using slower and
more exciting flat bed presses than the high speed rotary presses
used by the domestic mills on most chain store products.
Once the griege goods are printed, they have to be "finished".
Finishing is a chemical bath that sets the dye into the cotton
fabric. Unfinished goods or poorly finished goods bleed and have
an extremely coarse and boardy hand.
As you might have guesses, premium brands are normally finished
in a more time-consuming manner. This adds greatly to the silken
hand of "quilter's grade" fabrics as well as superior
color fastness. The long and the short of it, however, is
that consumers do get what they pay for.
